Life on board is broadly divided into two phases: passage-making and sitting in harbour.
Apart from the Wells to Whitby stretch, most of our passages are between six and eight hours - the length of a working day. What it's like is very varied, depending on where we are and what the conditions are like.
On passage
If the wind is friendly and the sea not too lumpy, it can be a glorious experience. The joy of getting the most out of the sails, finding the most efficient way of getting closer to our destination, can be a wonderful thing.
If there's too little wind, we have to rely on the engine. In a flattish sea, we can make quite fast progress under motor, but it's nowhere near as much fun as sailing. Usually the steering is left to the autopilot, which we call Marvin. He can keep going for hours, steering a better course than any human, and he doesn't get bored (or if he does, he doesn't complain).
Sometimes if there is too much wind, coming from the wrong direction, we also use the engine, particularly if we have a way to go and a deadline to keep. Then it's tedious, especially if the waves are just the wrong size and from the wrong place. The boat then makes a sickening slamming noise as it falls off the top of a wave onto the next one. It's not dangerous, but it shakes your fillings out and after too long it wears the spirit down.
Seeing the sights
On passage there is usually something to look at. The sea, of course, which is constantly changing. Other vessels pop up over the horizon from time to time, and we have to make a judgement about whether or not they pose a collision risk.
Most of the time we have been in sight of land. We have sailed past some spectacular stretches of coastline. Castles appear on the coast from time to time, like the imposing Bamburgh Castle. Or we might pass some interesting islands: the Farne Islands are a haven for wildlife, and the nearby Holy Island (formerly known as Lindisfarne) is a site of historical interest: it was here that in 793 the Vikings made their first significant raid on English shores; and it was here that the exquisite Lindisfarne Gospels were produced. We were hoping to spend a night at anchor here and explore the island, but as so often the weather had other ideas: a Force 7 would have made for an uncomfortable night.
Wildlife at sea
The wildlife is also worth watching. Sea birds abound: your basic seagulls, obviously, but also many other species. There are smallish black-and-white ones with a slightly tubby body, which I think are either razorbills or guillemots. I understand you can tell them apart by the beak, but they always fly away or dive before you get close enough to see. My favourites are the gannets. They have an ugly name, but they are supremely elegant birds, with slender black-tipped wings, a white body and a delicate yellow patch behind their necks. They fly in formation, close over the surface of the sea.
Around the Farne Islands and Lindsfarne, and also as we were passing the Isle of May, we saw puffins. They are tiny birds really, but undeniably cute with their coloured bills and, as they fly away, little red feet.
In a little fishing harbour called Dunbar, we experienced a kittiwake colony. Dozens of pairs of these birds were nesting in the walls of an old ruined castle, right above where we were moored. Their name comes from the call they make: kitti-WAKE, kitti-WAKE. And they like making noise: the din was incessant until the sun went down.
We've even seen some seals, popping their heads out of the water to wonder at the strange white boat bearing down on them.
Climbing around
Sailing boats often lean over. This is a natural consequence of the forces at play, but it makes moving around the boat complicated. In feisty conditions, walking from one place to another is like clambering over a climing frame that is being shaken in an earthquake. I will leave you to imagine what it's like going to the loo, particularly if you are wearing six layers of clothing.
In harbour
We often dine on board. Different crew members have been taking it in turns to cook, always with delicious results. Goldfinch, among many other virtures, has a spacious galley with plenty of worktop, and even on a small boat cooker people have been able to produce varied tasty meals, often washed down with a bottle (or two) of something nice.
We do have a shower on the boat, but when you have to carry your water with you it's important to be careful about how much you use. If we're in a marina there are usually showers available for customers; the quality of these is mixed but they usually do the job.
And of course, when we are in harbour we can go and see the sights, do a bit of food shopping, go to the pub, or simply give the legs a stretch.
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